be warned that there are more differences between leaded and unleaded petrol, than just the lead content. In particular: Octane levels.
The lead-additive stuff that I've bought (Castrol Valvemaster Plus (http://www.castrolclassicoils.co.uk/valvemp_new.htm)) provides an octane boost as well, so hopefully that will suffice until I can get a more long-term solution.
My advice is: Get the new cylinder head, and while you're at it, it probably won't cost much extra to get enlarged valves and ports.
This seems like... well, like cheating, somehow. I don't want to make the engine more powerful than it is, I just want to be able to use petrol that I can actually buy without major faff. If there was somewhere nearby that sold full-fat^Wleaded petrol I probably wouldn't be changing the car at all.
As for the floppy gearstick: This is usually due to a worn bush on the selector forks. (It's a rubber thingo that has probably completely deteriorated by now.) Get this replaced, and the gearstick should become *much* more certain, and make driving a lot easier.
It sounds from other MM drivers/owners as if the gearstick isn't actually any worse than expected, so it may just be that I'm not used to it. Will investigate though. (Is this the sort of thing I could do myself? Bearing in mind that I'm a total novice at this kind of thing...)
Re the door: Yes, that should just be a matter of adjusting the hinge mounts. (Assuming the slant isn't due to a warped chassis)
I'd be really surprised if it was that, because the chassis is generally in such good condition... but what's the best way to check?
Re the pulling-left: My bets are on you requiring new ball joints on the front wheels, prior to a wheel alignment. (I'm assuming the steering rack is fine -you'd probably know if it was playing up)
While driving her around last night I noticed that the steering wasn't always pulling left; it seemed to depend on the road, as if the car was really hypersensitive to any camber on the road. That does rather suggest (to me, at least) that it's the wheels rather than the steering rack.
However, do check the tyre pressures are equal first..
Yes, that's high up the list. Couldn't find a tyre pressure gauge in Halfords though (is it just me, or are Halfords really shit?) though their website suggests that they do do them (http://www.halfords.com/shop/item.asp?id=202424) -- will look again, or look in Mackays (http://mackay.co.uk/) when I get a chance.
also, if you have one of the models with the wierd alcohol-based suspension, check the levels and flush and replace with fresh fluid.
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Date: 2003-02-25 07:27 am (UTC)In particular: Octane levels.
The lead-additive stuff that I've bought (Castrol Valvemaster Plus (http://www.castrolclassicoils.co.uk/valvemp_new.htm)) provides an octane boost as well, so hopefully that will suffice until I can get a more long-term solution.
My advice is: Get the new cylinder head, and while you're at it, it probably won't cost much extra to get enlarged valves and ports.
This seems like... well, like cheating, somehow. I don't want to make the engine more powerful than it is, I just want to be able to use petrol that I can actually buy without major faff. If there was somewhere nearby that sold full-fat^Wleaded petrol I probably wouldn't be changing the car at all.
As for the floppy gearstick: This is usually due to a worn bush on the selector forks. (It's a rubber thingo that has probably completely deteriorated by now.) Get this replaced, and the gearstick should become *much* more certain, and make driving a lot easier.
It sounds from other MM drivers/owners as if the gearstick isn't actually any worse than expected, so it may just be that I'm not used to it. Will investigate though. (Is this the sort of thing I could do myself? Bearing in mind that I'm a total novice at this kind of thing...)
Re the door: Yes, that should just be a matter of adjusting the hinge mounts. (Assuming the slant isn't due to a warped chassis)
I'd be really surprised if it was that, because the chassis is generally in such good condition... but what's the best way to check?
Re the pulling-left: My bets are on you requiring new ball joints on the front wheels, prior to a wheel alignment. (I'm assuming the steering rack is fine -you'd probably know if it was playing up)
While driving her around last night I noticed that the steering wasn't always pulling left; it seemed to depend on the road, as if the car was really hypersensitive to any camber on the road. That does rather suggest (to me, at least) that it's the wheels rather than the steering rack.
However, do check the tyre pressures are equal first..
Yes, that's high up the list. Couldn't find a tyre pressure gauge in Halfords though (is it just me, or are Halfords really shit?) though their website suggests that they do do them (http://www.halfords.com/shop/item.asp?id=202424) -- will look again, or look in Mackays (http://mackay.co.uk/) when I get a chance.
also, if you have one of the models with the wierd alcohol-based suspension, check the levels and flush and replace with fresh fluid.
No alcohol AFAIK...
Thanks for all the suggestions, anyway!